专栏简氏酒庄

Naked Wines: angels at the table

No wine retailer excites such strong and contradictory comment as Naked Wines. The customers of this six-year-old, mould-breaking online retailer seem to love it – at least, to judge from the thousands of web reviews of their wines. They like Naked’s methodology of funding winemakers in advance, and these producers obviously also love Naked. But producers who have never had dealings with Naked, or who have been approached but have declined to do business with them, are deeply suspicious. And the conventional wine trade fears and loathes Naked in equal measure.

You rarely hear a kind word about Naked in wine trade circles. According to rumour, theirs is a bubble that is about to burst. They are masters of spin who tell half-truths and have committed the worst sin of all: turning tens of thousands of wine drinkers into loyal customers. Typical of their public relations prowess is an article that appeared in The Daily Telegraph in March last year headlined “Naked Wines shares maiden profit with staff”. What is described as a “wine venture capital firm… handed £35,000 to 34 staff”. No mention of owners Wein International, the German company once better known as Pieroth in Europe (PRP in the US), which used to send hapless wine salesmen to people’s homes. Instead we are given the impression that this is the cuddliest of struggling wine retailers.

But when I asked the head of Majestic Wine the other day whom he saw as his main competitor, he spat out “Naked” in a trice. In the old days it would probably have been the Laithwaite’s/Direct Wines group, Britain’s biggest direct wine seller and owner of most of Britain’s mail-order wine clubs, which has now expanded into the US, Australia, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Switzerland, Germany, Sweden, Denmark and Poland. I see a parallel between Naked Wines and Laithwaite’s. They both have a business model that operates outside wine trade norms. Not for them the old system whereby a retailer buys from a wholesaler, who might buy from an importer or the agent of a producer. They don’t need to kowtow to any supermarket buyer but go straight to the producer and offer wines unavailable elsewhere, thereby making direct price comparisons virtually impossible.

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简氏酒庄

简希丝•罗宾逊(Jancis Robinson),从事葡萄酒报道长达37年。1989年起为英国《金融时报》撰写葡萄酒报道。1984年,她成为葡萄酒贸易行业外的第一位葡萄酒大师,并在manbetx app苹果 品评葡萄酒。她撰写过多本经典葡萄酒专著,包括《牛津葡萄酒百科辞典》,以及与休·约翰逊(Hugh Johnson)合著的《世界葡萄酒地图》。她还是个专业电视讲师,主讲的“简希丝•罗宾逊葡萄酒课程”和“酒商的故事”,曾获得多个电视节目大奖。

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